Hi guys, I'm restoring a UK bomber yoke which is quite badly pitted due to the usual corrosion. Could anyone give me a pointer on the best way to fill in the pits, and the type of paint to use? Many thanks.
Hi Fly-Buy - yes, its one I bought some time ago, and only just got around to cleaning it up. The previous paint coat had been applied with a sweeping brush I think.
Fly-Buy - unfortunately I don't. someone prior to me decided to cut the blocks off with industrial shears or something similar and made a real mess. Now, if anyone know the whereabouts of the switch blocks.....!!!
I use black 'milliput' modelling putty to great effect filling all sorts of holes and missing/corroded parts of grips/yokes. What I suggest is to remove as much 'loose' material, give an undercoat of black paint/primer to seal the surface and then mix the putty together in small batches and take your time! it is best worked while still malleable use a wet finger to smooth (this reduces sanding later!) Once complete give it another coat of paint.
I also seem to remember seeing pictures of Valliant yokes with a 'string' binding but, that may well be something that has been done post 'real use' - as we have discussed before!
By: Air Ministry
- 22nd May 2020 at 16:59Permalink
I also seem to remember seeing pictures of Valiant yokes with a 'string' binding but, that may well be something that has been done post 'real use' - as we have discussed before!
Several Valiant yokes recovered from "that" scrap pile had the string covering.
Recently I started the restoration of a Dehavilland Heron wheel and partial column that has been sitting in the queue for many years. I've removed the bits and pieces that I can. But I've not been able to remove the wheel from the head of the column. Has anyone on this thread removed the wheel from a DH Heron or Dove control column? If so, please share how it's done. Or perhaps someone has an Illustrated Parts Manual with an exploded view of a Heron/Dove control column. That might prove helpful too.
The wheel is apparently not pressed into position. And the large nut in back appears to have been (permanently) keyed in place after it was originally tightened down. The slot for the Woodruff Key is visible in one of the attached photos. Far as I can tell, the nut cannot be removed from the hollow shaft it was threaded onto without destroying it. The shaft spins with the nut when I wrench on it. Nothing comes apart. The nut and shaft just spin in place.
Any thoughts/suggestions will be much appreciated. Thank you.
Hello Swifter, I've never taken one apart, but have the DH Beaver manual attached. Similar yoke but different fittings at the back. A bit brutal, but could you drill down the keyway to remove the key, then swing freely on the nut to overcome the thread damage?
By: ian_
- 23rd May 2020 at 16:23Permalink- Edited 23rd May 2020 at 16:26
Thanks for the tip, NewOldSpitty. I was a tad worried about googling French Whipping, but you were spot on. It's for a Polikarpov R5 Spade grip, and the only illustration I could find, (having bought a CD manual first) shows the spiral rib from the process. Now I need to get the steel prepped ready for whipping. Thanks!
Posts: 365
By: H.M.S Vulture - 11th May 2020 at 21:24 Permalink - Edited 11th May 2020 at 21:25
Firefly Mk 7
Posts: 524
By: Gin Ye Daur - 11th May 2020 at 23:18 Permalink
Thanks for that HMS V!
Very interesting, was that the only version to use the Mk 2 spade?
GYD
Posts: 52
By: Brightspark180 - 16th May 2020 at 19:11 Permalink
Thank you once again for the information guys, can always rely on this forum to help me out.
Posts: 83
By: martynp - 17th May 2020 at 19:19 Permalink
Hi guys, I'm restoring a UK bomber yoke which is quite badly pitted due to the usual corrosion. Could anyone give me a pointer on the best way to fill in the pits, and the type of paint to use? Many thanks.
Posts: 23
By: barongan - 17th May 2020 at 20:00 Permalink - Edited 17th May 2020 at 20:00
following
Posts: 22
By: Wet-Dog - 18th May 2020 at 16:28 Permalink
Do you have a photo Martynp?
Posts: 83
By: martynp - 19th May 2020 at 10:40 Permalink - Edited 19th May 2020 at 10:44
Hopefully these show the corrosion and the problem I have in trying to get the brake link to free off.
Posts: 1,424
By: FLY.BUY - 19th May 2020 at 16:13 Permalink
Nice yoke Martyn, is it a Valiant control wheel?
Posts: 83
By: martynp - 19th May 2020 at 18:14 Permalink
Hi Fly-Buy - yes, its one I bought some time ago, and only just got around to cleaning it up. The previous paint coat had been applied with a sweeping brush I think.
Posts: 1,424
By: FLY.BUY - 19th May 2020 at 18:26 Permalink
Nice rare item Martyn, especially if you have the switch blocks on the ends of the arms.
Posts: 83
By: martynp - 19th May 2020 at 19:27 Permalink
Fly-Buy - unfortunately I don't. someone prior to me decided to cut the blocks off with industrial shears or something similar and made a real mess. Now, if anyone know the whereabouts of the switch blocks.....!!!
Posts: 524
By: Gin Ye Daur - 19th May 2020 at 21:54 Permalink
Hi Martyn,
I use black 'milliput' modelling putty to great effect filling all sorts of holes and missing/corroded parts of grips/yokes. What I suggest is to remove as much 'loose' material, give an undercoat of black paint/primer to seal the surface and then mix the putty together in small batches and take your time! it is best worked while still malleable use a wet finger to smooth (this reduces sanding later!) Once complete give it another coat of paint.
I also seem to remember seeing pictures of Valliant yokes with a 'string' binding but, that may well be something that has been done post 'real use' - as we have discussed before!
Martyn
GYD
Posts: 83
By: martynp - 20th May 2020 at 13:12 Permalink
Hi Martyn - Milliput ordered. Thanks for the info.
Posts: 1,911
By: Air Ministry - 22nd May 2020 at 16:59 Permalink
Several Valiant yokes recovered from "that" scrap pile had the string covering.
From the A.P...
Posts: 2,004
By: ian_ - 22nd May 2020 at 23:06 Permalink
Excellent picture AM. Thanks for sharing. Any idea of the string spec? I'm thinking 'twine' of some sort. Have a Russian grip to bind.
Posts: 524
By: Gin Ye Daur - 22nd May 2020 at 23:28 Permalink
Thanks AM,
That has certainly dispersed a few myths! That picture could almost be an 'upgraded' He 111 ?
GYD
Posts: 127
By: NewQldSpitty - 23rd May 2020 at 02:06 Permalink
Search out French Whipping for doing the twine on Yokes or Grips.Goes back to WW1 days..
Posts: 58
By: Swifterr - 23rd May 2020 at 05:35 Permalink
Hello Gents:
Recently I started the restoration of a Dehavilland Heron wheel and partial column that has been sitting in the queue for many years. I've removed the bits and pieces that I can. But I've not been able to remove the wheel from the head of the column. Has anyone on this thread removed the wheel from a DH Heron or Dove control column? If so, please share how it's done. Or perhaps someone has an Illustrated Parts Manual with an exploded view of a Heron/Dove control column. That might prove helpful too.
The wheel is apparently not pressed into position. And the large nut in back appears to have been (permanently) keyed in place after it was originally tightened down. The slot for the Woodruff Key is visible in one of the attached photos. Far as I can tell, the nut cannot be removed from the hollow shaft it was threaded onto without destroying it. The shaft spins with the nut when I wrench on it. Nothing comes apart. The nut and shaft just spin in place.
Any thoughts/suggestions will be much appreciated. Thank you.
Posts: 2,004
By: ian_ - 23rd May 2020 at 16:17 Permalink
Hello Swifter, I've never taken one apart, but have the DH Beaver manual attached. Similar yoke but different fittings at the back. A bit brutal, but could you drill down the keyway to remove the key, then swing freely on the nut to overcome the thread damage?
Posts: 2,004
By: ian_ - 23rd May 2020 at 16:23 Permalink - Edited 23rd May 2020 at 16:26
Thanks for the tip, NewOldSpitty. I was a tad worried about googling French Whipping, but you were spot on. It's for a Polikarpov R5 Spade grip, and the only illustration I could find, (having bought a CD manual first) shows the spiral rib from the process. Now I need to get the steel prepped ready for whipping. Thanks!