Your Favourite Control Column Stick/Yoke/Grip!

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20 years 8 months

Posts: 365

Firefly Mk 7

Firefly7

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13 years 1 month

Posts: 524

Thanks for that HMS V!

Very interesting, was that the only version to use the Mk 2 spade?

GYD

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7 years 9 months

Posts: 52

Thank you once again for the information guys, can always rely on this forum to help me out. 

Member for

7 years 1 month

Posts: 83

Hi guys, I'm restoring a UK bomber yoke which is quite badly pitted due to the usual corrosion. Could anyone give me a pointer on the best way to fill in the pits, and the type of paint to use? Many thanks.

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5 years 7 months

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followinghttps://babang.xyz/assets/12/o.png

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7 years 1 month

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Hopefully these show the corrosion and the problem I have in trying to get the brake link to free off.

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Member for

19 years 9 months

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Nice yoke Martyn, is it a Valiant control wheel? 

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7 years 1 month

Posts: 83

Hi Fly-Buy - yes, its one I bought some time ago, and only just got around to cleaning it up. The previous paint coat had been applied with a sweeping brush I think.

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19 years 9 months

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Nice rare item Martyn, especially if you have the switch blocks on the ends of the arms. 

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7 years 1 month

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Fly-Buy - unfortunately I don't. someone prior to me decided to cut the blocks off with industrial shears or something similar and made a real mess. Now, if anyone know the whereabouts of the switch blocks.....!!!

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13 years 1 month

Posts: 524

Hi Martyn,

I use black 'milliput' modelling putty to great effect filling all sorts of holes and missing/corroded parts of grips/yokes.  What I suggest is to remove as much 'loose' material, give an undercoat of black paint/primer to seal the surface and then mix the putty together in small batches and take your time!  it is best worked while still malleable use a wet finger to smooth (this reduces sanding later!)  Once complete give it another coat of paint.

I also seem to remember seeing pictures of Valliant yokes with a 'string' binding but, that may well be something that has been done post 'real use' - as we have discussed before!

Martyn

GYD

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7 years 1 month

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Hi Martyn - Milliput ordered. Thanks for the info.

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16 years 2 months

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I also seem to remember seeing pictures of Valiant yokes with a 'string' binding but, that may well be something that has been done post 'real use' - as we have discussed before!

Several Valiant yokes recovered from "that" scrap pile had the string covering.

 From the A.P...

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Member for

16 years 10 months

Posts: 2,004

Excellent picture AM. Thanks for sharing. Any idea of the string spec? I'm thinking 'twine' of some sort. Have a Russian grip to bind. 

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13 years 1 month

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Thanks AM,

That has certainly dispersed a few myths!  That picture could almost be an 'upgraded' He 111  ?

GYD

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4 years

Posts: 127

Search out French Whipping for doing the twine on Yokes or Grips.Goes back to WW1 days..

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4 years 5 months

Posts: 58

Hello Gents:

Recently I started the restoration of a Dehavilland Heron wheel and partial column that has been sitting in the queue for many years.  I've removed the bits and pieces that I can.  But I've not been able to remove the wheel from the head of the column.  Has anyone on this thread removed the wheel from a DH Heron or Dove control column?  If so, please share how it's done.  Or perhaps someone has an Illustrated Parts Manual with an exploded view of a Heron/Dove control column.  That might prove helpful too.

The wheel is apparently not pressed into position.  And the large nut in back appears to have been (permanently) keyed in place after it was originally tightened down.  The slot for the Woodruff Key is visible in one of the attached photos.  Far as I can tell, the nut cannot be removed from the hollow shaft it was threaded onto without destroying it.  The shaft spins with the nut when I wrench on it.   Nothing comes apart. The nut and shaft just spin in place.  

Any thoughts/suggestions will be much appreciated.  Thank you.

 

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Member for

16 years 10 months

Posts: 2,004

Hello Swifter, I've never taken one apart, but have the DH Beaver manual attached. Similar yoke but different fittings at the back. A bit brutal, but could you drill down the keyway to remove the key, then swing freely on the nut to overcome the thread damage?

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Member for

16 years 10 months

Posts: 2,004

Thanks for the tip, NewOldSpitty. I was a tad worried about googling French Whipping, but you were spot on. It's for a Polikarpov R5 Spade grip, and the only illustration I could find, (having bought a CD manual first) shows the spiral rib from the process. Now I need to get the steel prepped ready for whipping. Thanks! 

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