Your Favourite Control Column Stick/Yoke/Grip!

Profile picture for user H.M.S Vulture

Member for

16 years 10 months

Posts: 356

Firefly Mk 7

Firefly7

Profile picture for user Gin Ye Daur

Member for

9 years 3 months

Posts: 454

Thanks for that HMS V!

Very interesting, was that the only version to use the Mk 2 spade?

GYD

Member for

3 years 11 months

Posts: 37

Thank you once again for the information guys, can always rely on this forum to help me out. 

Member for

3 years 3 months

Posts: 66

Hi guys, I'm restoring a UK bomber yoke which is quite badly pitted due to the usual corrosion. Could anyone give me a pointer on the best way to fill in the pits, and the type of paint to use? Many thanks.

Member for

1 year 10 months

Posts: 20

followinghttps://babang.xyz/assets/12/o.png

Member for

3 years 3 months

Posts: 66

Hopefully these show the corrosion and the problem I have in trying to get the brake link to free off.

Attachments
Profile picture for user FLY.BUY

Member for

15 years 11 months

Posts: 1,341

Nice yoke Martyn, is it a Valiant control wheel? 

Member for

3 years 3 months

Posts: 66

Hi Fly-Buy - yes, its one I bought some time ago, and only just got around to cleaning it up. The previous paint coat had been applied with a sweeping brush I think.

Profile picture for user FLY.BUY

Member for

15 years 11 months

Posts: 1,341

Nice rare item Martyn, especially if you have the switch blocks on the ends of the arms. 

Member for

3 years 3 months

Posts: 66

Fly-Buy - unfortunately I don't. someone prior to me decided to cut the blocks off with industrial shears or something similar and made a real mess. Now, if anyone know the whereabouts of the switch blocks.....!!!

Profile picture for user Gin Ye Daur

Member for

9 years 3 months

Posts: 454

Hi Martyn,

I use black 'milliput' modelling putty to great effect filling all sorts of holes and missing/corroded parts of grips/yokes.  What I suggest is to remove as much 'loose' material, give an undercoat of black paint/primer to seal the surface and then mix the putty together in small batches and take your time!  it is best worked while still malleable use a wet finger to smooth (this reduces sanding later!)  Once complete give it another coat of paint.

I also seem to remember seeing pictures of Valliant yokes with a 'string' binding but, that may well be something that has been done post 'real use' - as we have discussed before!

Martyn

GYD

Member for

3 years 3 months

Posts: 66

Hi Martyn - Milliput ordered. Thanks for the info.

Profile picture for user Air Ministry

Member for

12 years 5 months

Posts: 1,740

I also seem to remember seeing pictures of Valiant yokes with a 'string' binding but, that may well be something that has been done post 'real use' - as we have discussed before!

Several Valiant yokes recovered from "that" scrap pile had the string covering.

 From the A.P...

Attachments
Profile picture for user ian_

Member for

13 years

Posts: 1,982

Excellent picture AM. Thanks for sharing. Any idea of the string spec? I'm thinking 'twine' of some sort. Have a Russian grip to bind. 

Profile picture for user Gin Ye Daur

Member for

9 years 3 months

Posts: 454

Thanks AM,

That has certainly dispersed a few myths!  That picture could almost be an 'upgraded' He 111  😁

GYD

Profile picture for user NewQldSpitty

Member for

2 months 2 weeks

Posts: 8

Search out French Whipping for doing the twine on Yokes or Grips.Goes back to WW1 days..

Profile picture for user Swifterr

Member for

7 months 1 week

Posts: 17

Hello Gents:

Recently I started the restoration of a Dehavilland Heron wheel and partial column that has been sitting in the queue for many years.  I've removed the bits and pieces that I can.  But I've not been able to remove the wheel from the head of the column.  Has anyone on this thread removed the wheel from a DH Heron or Dove control column?  If so, please share how it's done.  Or perhaps someone has an Illustrated Parts Manual with an exploded view of a Heron/Dove control column.  That might prove helpful too.

The wheel is apparently not pressed into position.  And the large nut in back appears to have been (permanently) keyed in place after it was originally tightened down.  The slot for the Woodruff Key is visible in one of the attached photos.  Far as I can tell, the nut cannot be removed from the hollow shaft it was threaded onto without destroying it.  The shaft spins with the nut when I wrench on it.   Nothing comes apart. The nut and shaft just spin in place.  

Any thoughts/suggestions will be much appreciated.  Thank you.

 

Attachments
Profile picture for user ian_

Member for

13 years

Posts: 1,982

Hello Swifter, I've never taken one apart, but have the DH Beaver manual attached. Similar yoke but different fittings at the back. A bit brutal, but could you drill down the keyway to remove the key, then swing freely on the nut to overcome the thread damage?

Attachments
Profile picture for user ian_

Member for

13 years

Posts: 1,982

Thanks for the tip, NewOldSpitty. I was a tad worried about googling French Whipping, but you were spot on. It's for a Polikarpov R5 Spade grip, and the only illustration I could find, (having bought a CD manual first) shows the spiral rib from the process. Now I need to get the steel prepped ready for whipping. Thanks! 

Attachments