Pakistani Military Aviation in mountain rescue

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Climber rescued from Himalayan peak

James Sturcke and agencies/The Guardian
Wednesday August 10, 2005

Pakistan army helicopters rescued a Slovenian climber today from one of the world's highest and most dangerous mountains where he had been trapped for four days.
The crews, flying well above their helicopters' normal operating altitudes, winched mountaineer Tomaz Humar, 36, off an icy ledge on the face of the 8,125m (26,657ft) Nanga Parbat, the ninth highest peak in the world.

"He is absolutely all right," military spokesman Colonel Atique Rehman said.

Helicopters had tried to rescue Mr Humar, who was stranded at 6,000 metres while attempting a solo ascent of the Himalayan mountain, every day since Sunday but were thwarted by low cloud, he said.

http://www.humar.com/pic/news/small/20050810084410_180_1.jpg

Two army Lama helicopters set off early today and succeeded in lowering a sling and pulling him up and away.

Mr Humar was taken to the town of Gilgit, about 155 miles north-east of Islamabad, an army statement said.

He had left his ground crew in the hope of reaching peak alone, but was caught in a harsh cold front. His support crew gave a graphic account of the agonising rescue attempts on the expedition's website.

"Tomaz waited, tied to two ice screws with a loose prusik knot so he would not stagger while trying to catch the weights on the [helicopter's] rope," they reported. "The helicopter approached him, dropped the rope, Tomaz caught it, wrapped it around himself, raised his thumb to confirm he was OK and the helicopter flew up.

"We saw him hanging from the rope, the helicopter approaching. At 6.30am Tomaz kissed the earth. Actually, he fell on his knees since he could barely walk from exhaustion. They laid him on a sleeping bag, he cried, hugged everyone around him and kept thanking the crew."

Mr Humar set off from base camp last Monday after waiting for days for the weather to improve. The expedition's website said conditions on the mountain were the worst seen for a number of years for climbing.

Two days after setting off, his support crew reported he was "extremely tired and probably quite dehydrated and is slowly losing his nerve". On Friday a prolonged snowstorm blew in trapping him on the mountain.

Nanga Parbat, which means "naked mountain" in Urdu, is also known as "killer mountain". It is located in the western Himalayas in the far north of Pakistan.

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see also http://www.humar.com/en/index.php

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Slovenian climber Tomaz Humar, center, talks with Pakistans army pilots, Rashid Ullah Beg, right, and Major Khalid, left, prior to their meeting with Foreign Minister Khursheed Kasuri, Saturday, Aug. 13, 2005 in Islamabad, Pakistan. Beg and Khalid rescued Humar, who was trapped on an icy ledge at around 6,000 meters (20,000 feet) while attempting to ascend an unconquered face of Pakistan's 'Killer Mountain'.

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Professional excellence of Pakistan Army pilot praised

http://www.app.com.pk/n59.htm

ISLAMABAD, Aug 15 (APP): A Slovenian Army Officer, Colonel Alan in his e-mail message to one of his Pakistani friends in the Army has conveyed the feelings of Slovenian people about the Armed Forces of Pakistan.

He writes that Pakistani Pilots are great, brave and best trained professionals and all Pakistanis should be proud of them.

He thanked the Pakistani Armed forces for courageously rescuing the Slovenian mountaineer in Nanga Parbat.

Colonel Alan who is presently spending his summer vacation in his country attended US Army War Course with a Pakistan Army Officer through whom he has forwarded the message of felicitation for the Pakistan Armed Forces.

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Rescued Slovenian Mountaineer meets President

http://www.app.com.pk/n10.htm

http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/6374/prclim2kz.jpg

ISLAMABAD, Aug 16 (APP): Slovenian mountaineer, Tomas Humar called on President General Pervez Musharraf Tuesday and expressed his gratitude and appreciation for the successful rescue efforts by the Pakistan Government, which brought him back to safety from Nanga Parbat.

Humar deeply appreciated the valor of the Pakistan Army pilots who he said undertook a dangerous mission for his rescue. President Musharraf commended Lt. Col. Rashidullah Baig and Major Khalid Amir Rana for their act

of bravery.

Humar was stranded at a height of 6500 meters on the precipitous Rupal face of the Nanga Parbat, also known as the Killer Mountain 14 days ago. The mountaineer was rescued by the Pakistan Army Aviation pilots last Thursday when they conducted a high-risk rescue operation to bring him back to the base camp.

The rescue operation was a coordinated effort by the Ministries of Foreign Affairs, Interior, Defence and Civil Aviation Authority.

Humar presented the President with the ice axe, which he used to climb Rupal Face of the Nanga Parbat and later for his rescue.

He offered to establish with the assistance of the Government of Pakistan a hospital in the vicinity of the Nanga Parbat which the President warmly welcomed.

Nazir Sabir, President, of the Pakistan Alpine Club was also present on the occasion.

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Truly remarkable...

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Wow, basically there is no word to describe the bravery of those pilots flying above their normal altitude.

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Nice pics! thanks for sharing

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How old are these Lamas ? And what facilities does Pakistan have to keep these birds airworthy all the time ?

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Daily Times - Site Edition Wednesday, August 17, 2005

Slovenian climber to build hospital

ISLAMABAD: A renowned Slovenian climber said on Tuesday that he would help build a hospital for villagers near the “Killer Mountain” where he was rescued by an army helicopter last week after being trapped for six days.

Tomaz Humar, 36, made the offer in a meeting with President General Pervez Musharraf to “express his gratitude and appreciation” for the government’s help in saving him, the Foreign Ministry said in a statement.

Musharraf “warmly welcomed” the proposal for the hospital in the remote Himalayan region, the statement said.

Last Wednesday, an army helicopter rescued Humar from an altitude of around 6,000 metres while he was trapped on an icy face of the Nanga Parbat mountain, the world’s ninth highest peak. It is widely known as the “Killer Mountain” because of the many climbers who have perished there.

Musharraf praised Lt Col Rashidullah Baig and Maj Khalid Amir Rana, the pilot and co-pilot of the high-altitude Lama helicopter that rescued Humar after two previously failed attempts due to bad weather. Humar was taken to safety while clinging to a rope from the helicopter, which could not land nearby.

Humar suffered from thirst, hunger and early signs of frostbite. He could barely walk due to exhaustion, but had no serious health problems during his ordeal on the mountain. ap

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Great story, well done pilots.

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i believe there is a funny story about these LAMAS. France had stopped the assembly line for these and PA needed these. Theonly country that was building these was India under license so pakistan got some other country to buy these and then transfered them to pakistan. has anyone heard about this or any confirmation.

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Islamabad, PAKISTAN: Slovenian climber Tomaz Humar (L) shows a Iysucks (hammer) to Pakistani Prime Minister Shaukat Aziz during a meeting in Islamabad, 15 August 2005. Humar, who was rescued by Pakistani military on 10 August, after being trapped for six days on the Himalayan peak of Nanga Parbat, has said he will come back for another attempt on the "killer" mountain. AFP PHOTO/Farooq NAEEM (Photo credit should read FAROOQ NAEEM/AFP/Getty Images)

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ISLAMABAD, PAKISTAN: Pakistani Prime Minister Shaukat Aziz (R) gestures as he shakes hands with Slovenian climber Tomaz Humar prior to a meeting in Islamabad, 15 August 2005. Humar, who was rescued by the Pakistani military on 10 August, after being trapped for six days on the Himalayan peak of Nanga Parbat, has said he will come back for another attempt on the "killer" mountain.AFP PHOTO/Farooq NAEEM (Photo credit should read FAROOQ NAEEM/AFP/Getty Images)

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Videos of the rescue can be seen here:

http://www.humar.com/en/news1.php?id=194

The 2nd video is particularly good. The mountanineer was very lucky becuz he forgot to untie himself from the rope that was holding him to the mountain side. This could easily have sent the helicopter crashing in to the mountainside. luckily the rope broke but the tension in the rope from the helicopter sent him flying and almost hitting the helicopter. Any more tension on the rope could easily have sent him flying into the rotor blade.

if u zoom in the 2nd of the above films u can see the whole scenerio described above.

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Umm I am a little confused and will try to be as fair as possible using the facts:

The height of Naga Parbat is 8,125m or 26,657 ft.
The climber was rescued from a ledge at around 6,000 m or 19, 685 ft.

And thats the heighest mountain rescue ever and deserves its own thread on AFM? He was merely "winched" from the ledge.

from:http://www.mounteverest.net/story/Wheretheeaglesfly-ChopperlandsontopofEverestMay62005.shtml ....IAF

Is this the current IAF Everest expedition making waves? Possibly: Last year, on November 2, 2004 an IAF Cheetal Helicopter set a new world record at 0845 hrs by landing at a Density Altitude of 25,150 ft at Saserkangri near Leh.

Earlier, a Bell 407 helicopter held the world record in landing at the highest altitude, 22,180 ft, Pressure Altitude (24,971 ft Density Altitude) achieved on Jul 28, 2004.

Also in 2004, in rescue missions on May 11, 12 and 13 an IAF Cheetah helicopter landed at an altitude of 23,240 feet on the Kamet glacier in the Garhwal Himalayas to rescue three critically injured climbers. Wing Commander S K Sharma and his co-pilot Flt Lt A B Dhanake managed to successfully take off from the glacier with an increased pay-load of 70 kg. Sharma and Dhanake flew the rescue missions on May 11, 12 and 13 in severe turbulent conditions and in the face of jet speed winds.


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Umm I am a little confused and will try to be as fair as possible using the facts:

The height of Naga Parbat is 8,125m or 26,657 ft.
The climber was rescued from a ledge at around 6,000 m or 19, 685 ft.

And thats the heighest mountain rescue ever and deserves its own thread on AFM? He was merely "winched" from the ledge.

So before I brush this off as typical pakistani hyperbole (movies/pics of resuce and gratutious pics with the great leader etc)...could some care to clarify the facts for me using non madrassa mathematics?

Thanks for clearing this up George.

By the way, this rescue of Mr. Humar was at 22,000 feet. Here is the link :

http://www.guardian.co.uk/international/story/0,,1546675,00.html#article_continue

Thumbs up Lt. Col. Rashidullah Baig and Major Khalid Amir Rana.

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Videos of the rescue can be seen here:

http://www.humar.com/en/news1.php?id=194

The 2nd video is particularly good. The mountanineer was very lucky becuz he forgot to untie himself from the rope that was holding him to the mountain side. This could easily have sent the helicopter crashing in to the mountainside. luckily the rope broke but the tension in the rope from the helicopter sent him flying and almost hitting the helicopter. Any more tension on the rope could easily have sent him flying into the rotor blade.

if u zoom in the 2nd of the above films u can see the whole scenerio described above.

excellent find ! thanks.

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Pakistan Military Aviation in world's highest mountain rescue

Not undermining the good job of PAF, IMO the heading is wrong. It is not the heighest rescue.

But again a very tough task well done. and makes a mark in aviation history.

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Not undermining the good job of PAF, IMO the heading is wrong. It is not the heighest rescue.

But again a very tough task well done. and makes a mark in aviation history.

I don't think this rescue was conducted by PAF. It was the Army.

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I don't think this rescue was conducted by PAF. It was the Army.

Big deal. anyways i stand corrected.

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I really dont think that folks from BR can redefine density altitude as eloquently as you did...they just stick to the real definitions....

the FAA quote you gave does not define density altitude - it merely discusses the effects it has on aircraft pefomance.

the definition is given in the link below:
http://amsglossary.allenpress.com/glossary/search?id=density-altitude1

density altitude—The pressure altitude corrected for temperature deviations from the standard atmosphere.
Density altitude bears the same relation to pressure altitude as true altitude does to indicated altitude.

standard atmosphere refers to conditions at sea level.
http://amsglossary.allenpress.com/glossary/search?id=standard-atmosphere1

I stand by my definition - though i was wrong to use it has height reference.

And I sincerely hope you understood the imort of density altitude in TAKING OFF with PAYLOAD from height at which IAF rescued. Its not about steep slopes and other hypersimplistic explanations that this article has put forward....

the reason i mentioned johannesburg is becuz south african airlines bought airbus a340s instead of boeing777. one of the reason they gave was becuz they wanted to operate from Johannesburg. Johannesburg is at 5500ft. On hot day the temperature can reach 30 degrees centigrade. at that height and temp the air density can be 20% below standard day (15 degrees centigrade). In these conditions the engines need to work extremely hard and the take off speed needs to be increased. This has effects on engine life. Also in the event of engine failure the remaining engines have to work right to their limits during take off. For all these reasons SAA chose 4 engined airbus a340 instead of twin engined boeing777

I have discussed this in the thread below:

http://forum.keypublishing.co.uk/showthread.php?t=20169

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Where did my FAA definition post go????? There was nothing overly insulting about that post???? It just called their bluff??

SAF2000 Ji:
I donno about you... but what I posted was an exerpt from the FAA's SECTION on Density Altitude (So if we know the temp at that time we could have actually computed the density altitude of the PA chopper flight: which would still have been lower than whats been achieved earlier).

While I apperciate your efforts in finding a definition that suits your argument, I would rather stick with the FAA of the Northwest MOUNTAIN REGION (kinda ironic since you are discussing flight but you dont want to acknowledge whats laid out by an aviation authority).

But either way that still does not change the conclusion: the altitude claimed in this hyperbolic claim is MUCH lower than whats been INDPENDENTLY VERIFIED for the IAF, Kamet was/is much higher than a 22,000 ft rescue. A TAKE OFF from such an altitude would be determined by engine performance and that in turn would be determined by humidity at that point in time at that temp at that absolute altitude. (funny how you are giving me a Johannesburg explanation which RELATES to taking off from that altitude and yet you seem to think that hovering is easier than taking off from that altitude).

So I am forced to ask once again...whats so special about this new clipping. Its just propaganda.
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